These instructions describe how to replace the wishbone bushes and wishbone ball joints with the wishbones removed from the car.
NOTE: ANY WORK THAT YOU PERFORM ON YOUR OWN OR SOMEONE ELSE'S CAR IS ENTIRELY YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY. PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WORK IF YOU ARE NOT CONFIDENT YOU CAN COMPLETE IT SAFELY. ALWAYS FOLLOW GOOD WORKING PRACTICES AND NEVER TAKE RISKS OR SHORT CUTS. WHILST EVERY EFFORT HAS BEEN MADE TO ENSURE THAT THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE COMPLETE THEY SHOULD ONLY BE CONSIDERED A GUIDE - NO GUARANTEE IS MADE THAT THEY ARE COMPLETE OR EXHAUSTIVE.
PLEASE READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS THROUGH COMPLETELY AND THOROUGHLY BEFORE STARTING THE WORK. IF YOU ARE IN ANY DOUBT OR HAVE ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE CONTACT US AT instructions@tadts.com.
If you have any comments/suggestions or notice any errors/omissions please let us know at instructions@tadts.com.
General working recommendations
When removing parts from a car it is always a good idea to place them in a container rather than leaving
them on the floor. This reduces the risk of damaging them by treading on them and also keeps them cleaner
and easier to move around. Something like an old metal tray or biscuit tin is ideal - large enough to hold
most parts, strong enough to take the weight and robust enough to last.
Be methodical about the work and wherever possible work on a small part of the car at a time. This will help you be able to remember what you have done so that reassembly is easier.
Try and be tidy as you work - put tools back on a bench/in a box as they can be dangerous left lying around on the floor and are more difficult to find.
Please read these instructions through thoroughly before starting the work. If you have any questions/comments please feel free to contact us at the email address given at the top of the page.
Estimated time required: 12 hours 50 minutes
Please note that this estimated time is a rough guide and is based on a relatively inexperienced person
performing the task for the first time. It should cover most 'worst-case' scenarios and you will
probably find you complete the task in much less time.
Tools required
| - Suitable jack and protective pad (e.g. a piece of wood) | - Two chocks (e.g. house bricks) |
| - Four ramps | - Axle stands and suitable protection (2) |
| - Support for front of car (e.g. full boxes of paper, axle stands and suitable protection) (2) | - Wire brush |
| - Large mole grips | - Pliers |
| - Small hammer | - Long thin lever (e.g. old tyre lever) |
| - Large hammer | - Drill and suitable drill bits |
| - Small mole grips | - Ball joint splitter |
| - Large flat-bladed screwdriver | - Magnet-on-a-stick |
| - 10 ton floor press | - Assorted supports, sockets, extensions, dollies etc. for press |
| - Blunt flat-bladed screwdriver | - Small flat-bladed screwdriver |
| - Steel rule | - Wire cutters |
| - Small pin (e.g. old nail or broken allen key) | - 8mm socket |
| - 13mm socket | - 6mm allen key bit |
| - Socket handle and extension bars | - 19mm socket |
| - Road wheel bolt special tool (S2 only - supplied with car) | - 17mm socket |
| - Road wheel locking nut/bolt key (supplied with car) | - Breaker bar |
| - 10mm socket | - 4mm allen key bit |
| - 3mm allen key bit | - 8mm allen key bit |
| - Torque wrench | - 19mm open-ended spanner x2 |
| - 8mm open-ended spanner | - 17mm ring spanner |
| - 17mm open-ended spanner | - Brake piston spreader |
| - Rear brake caliper pison winding tool |
Materials required
| - WD40 or similar | - Newspaper |
| - Strong string or twine | - An assistant! |
| - Oil (for lubricating drill) | - Wire wool |
| - Fine wet and dry paper | - Superglue |
| - New wishbone bushes | - Grease |
| - New wishbone ball joint(s) | - New M10 nyloc nuts |
| - Rag/cloth/tissue | - New track rod end(s) |
| - Cable ties | - New M10x1.25 nyloc nuts |
| - Permabond | - Duralac |
| - Copper grease | - Brake cleaner or methylated spirits |
Torque settings
| - Wishbone pivot bolt 45Nm | |
| - Wishbone ball joint nut 55 Nm | - Track rod end to steering arm nut 30 Nm |
| - Track rod end locknuts 80-82Nm | - Wishbone pivot bolt 45Nm |
| - Wishbone pivot bolt 45Nm | - Anti roll bar drop link nut 45Nm |
| - Wishbone ball joint nut 55 Nm | - Front upright to lower ball joint plinth bolts 45 Nm |
| - Steering arm bolt 45Nm | - Damper bolt 45Nm |
| - Front brake caliper to upright bolts 45 Nm | - S1 road wheel nut 85 Nm |
| - S2 road wheel bolt 105 Nm |
Whenever using a ball joint splitter ensure that the splitter, the part to be split and the part
to be split from are secure and will not cause injury and/or damage. A great deal of energy is released when parts
like wishbone ball joints are separated which can cause these relatively heavy items to fly a long way with some
force. To achieve this replace the nut a few turns and tie some strong string or twine securely around all three
items which will hold them together.
Tools required
The Elise has a single jacking point each side that raises both wheels on one side at the same time. This should be
marked with a blue and white sticker with a picture of a trolley jack on it (point A in the diagram).
If the car you are working on does not have this sticker the correct jacking point is on the main
chassis rail at the point where the cockpit floor and engine undertray meet.
When raising the car use a piece of wood or similar to protect the chassis from direct contact with the saddle
of the jack.
It is preferable to have the car raised and level whilst working on it. A good way of achieving this is to use
four ramps - one under each wheel - to get the car high enough to work under.
Before raising the car, firmly apply the handbrake and chock the wheels on the opposite side to the one
you are going to raise. Carefully line up the jack up at the correct point and start to lift. Continue to raise
the car sliding the ramps under the two raised wheels as you do so (ensuring that they face opposite directions
to reduce the chance that the car will roll off) . Once you have raised it a small amount, lower the jack and
repeat on the other side. Continute raising each side in turn until all four wheels are resting on top of the
ramps.
Once the car is raised high enough to rest on top of the ramps it is a good idea to place the ramp under the front wheel with it's slope facing forwards and the ramp under the rear wheel with it's slope facing backwards. This helps to ensure the car cannot roll off the ramps and also gives better access when removing the undertray.
Never work under or near a car that is only supported on a jack. Always use some additional means of
support such as ramps. Even a full box of paper under the chassis rail is sufficient.
- Suitable jack and protective pad (e.g. a piece of wood)
- Two chocks (e.g. house bricks)
- Four ramps
Since there is no way of securely locating the jack on an Elise be careful about raising one side too much
higher than the other as there is a chance that the jack will slip out causing injury and damage the sill.
When placing the jack and protective pad ensure that you place it directly onto the flat surface of the
chassis rail and not onto any the fixings that are in that area.
Tools required
The engine undertray is held in place by 11 8mm hex head bolts and either two
13mm hex head bolts or two 6mm cap head bolts .
There are three 8mm hex head bolts on each side just in front of the rear wheels and five
8mm hex head bolts joining the undertray to the diffuser panel.
The easiest way to remove the undertray single-handed (it is quite an unwieldy item once removed) is to remove
all 11 8mm hex head bolts and then lie under the car with your feet pointing forwards.
Loosen both the remaining bolts and then raise your feet so that they are supporting the leading (front-most)
edge of the undertray. Use one hand to take the weight of the undertray and the other to remove the remaining
bolts. Once the bolts are removed carefully pull the undertray backwards until it clears the lip at its front
edge.
Once you have the undertray resting on your body/legs, slide it either out to the side or forwards as
appropriate.
- 8mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 6mm allen key bit
- Socket handle and extension bars
The undertray is likely to have debris resting on its top surface which may fall into your eyes/face
if you lower the trailing edge too much.
Tools required
The diffuser is held in place by 10 8mm hex head bolts and either two
13mm hex head bolts or two 6mm cap head bolts. There are 5 bolts joining the
diffuser to the engine undertray and 5 bolts along the back edge joining it to the rear clamshell.
Remove all the 8mm hex head bolts and then lie under the car and, whilst supporting the diffuser with
one hand, remove the remaining bolts. Once the bolts are removed carefully move the slide the diffuser out
from under the car.
- 8mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 6mm allen key bit
- Socket handle and extension bars
The diffuser is likely to have debris resting on its top surface which may fall into your eyes/face
if you lower the trailing edge too much.
Tools required
The front supports should go on the flat bottom of the main chassis rail as close as possible to the front
wheel arch. The rear supports go under the subframe where the diffuser is fixed. This is also the lower rear
wishbone rearmost mouting point.
Axle stands (with a suitable piece of protective material such as a piece of wood) are recommended for the
rear positions. Axle stands can also be used at the front (again with suitable protection against the chassis)
but anything strong and high enough will suffice. Even a full box of paper (i.e. five reams) is sufficient.
Once the car is flat on the four ramps, raise one side slightly until both wheels are clear of the ramps. Place
the supports in the correct locations and lower the car onto them. Repeat on the other side to get the car
resting on the supports and remove the ramps.
- Suitable jack and protective pad (e.g. a piece of wood)
- Axle stands and suitable protection (2)
- Support for front of car (e.g. full boxes of paper, axle stands and suitable protection) (2)
Since there is no way of securely locating the jack on an Elise be careful about raising one side too much
higher than the other as there is a chance that the jack will slip out causing injury and damage the sill.
There are four places on the Elise suitable for support. These are marked in the diagram as B (at the front)
and D (at the rear).
When placing the axle stands at the rear ensure that they and the protective pads are not going to be in the
way of any work planned.
It is always a good idea to work on one area of the car at a time. In the case of wishbone removal it is preferrable to remove the wishbone(s) from one corner, perform whatever work is required and then fit the wishbones back before proceeding to another corner.
Only the road wheel(s) for the corners of the car that are being worked on need to be removed.
Tools required
The S1 has 19mm hex head nuts and the S2 has 17mm hex head bolts (with the special tool).
Before undoing the road wheel nuts/bolts raise the car slightly so that some of the weight is taken on the jack. Do not raise it too far
otherwise the wheels will turn as you attempt to undo the road wheel nuts/bolts.
Place the support(s) under the correct locations and then remove the road wheel nuts/bolts (placing all the nuts/bolts/security nuts/covers in a
suitable container) and then remove the wheel from the car.
Place the removed road wheel somewhere they will not get damaged and out of the way. Also ensure that they are secure and won't fall over - i.e. don't leave them 'upright' on the tyre tread.
- 19mm socket
- Socket handle and extension bars
- Road wheel bolt special tool (S2 only - supplied with car)
- 17mm socket
- Road wheel locking nut/bolt key (supplied with car)
- Breaker bar
S1 only - covering the outside of the socket you use to undo the road wheel nuts with
electrical insulation tape or similar will help prevent damage to the wheels.
S2 only - the S2 has a special tool for the road wheel bolts. This should be included with
the tool kit car for the car.
S1 only - the locking wheel nuts have covers on them. These covers have a 'slot' across them
to distinguish them from the normal nuts. To remove the cover place the black plastic tube that the locking wheel nut key is stored in over
the cover and press firmly until it clicks on. Then remove the plastic tube and the cover should come off the nut.
Loosen all four nuts/bolts just one turn in the sequence shown. Then continue to
raise the car until the tyre is clear of the ground and the car is at the desired height.
Make sure when you loosen the road wheel locking nut/bolt the key that is firmly and squarely applied to the nut/bolt. These keys have a tendancy to 'round' if they are not properly used.
The wheel on S2s have a tendancy to fall off the hub/drive flange since they are not located on studs. To prevent this simply place your foot or knee gently against the bottom of the tyre before removing the road wheel bolts. Once the bolts are removed you can carefully remove the road wheel.
You may find that the wheel and disc have corroded
together. This is especially common on cars with steel brake discs (as opposed to the earlier cars with MMC
brake discs). If this is the case a sharp bang on the tyre at 12 o'clock should free the wheel. Make sure if you do this that you've placed
your foot or knee against the bottom of the tyre to prevent the wheel falling off.
Tools required
FRONT BRAKE HOSE CLIP REMOVAL PHOTO
The flexible brake hose clips are all secured with 10mm hex head nuts
onto studs welded to the wishbones (handbrake clip shown in photograph).
Thoroughly clean the visible part of the thread with a wire brush and remove the nut and washer and slide the clip from the stud.
Repeat for the flexible brake hose clip(s) as required.
- 10mm socket
- Socket handle and extension bars
- Wire brush
It is a good idea for small parts like the nuts and washers to replace them back onto the studs a few
turns.
Tools required
Materials required
Apply some WD40 or similar to the visible part of the track rod thread.
Slacken the locknut(s) on the track rod as shown in the photograph using a 19mm hex head open-ended spanner
taking care to ensure the spanner is properly on the nut as these tend to be very tight.
Once both locknuts have been loosened turn them back up to the track rod end body but only finger-tight.
- Wire brush
- Large mole grips
- 19mm open-ended spanner x2
- WD40 or similar
Thoroughly clean the visible part of the track rod thread with a wire brush.
It is preferable to use a spanner on the track rod end body rather than mole grips if possible.
Some track rod ends are manufactured to allow a 19mm spanner to securely hold them.
Some cars have one locknut on each side and some have two. Make sure that if the car you are working on has
two you loosen the inboard one first.
When loosening the track rod end locknut(s) make sure the spanner is correctly seated on the nut. These locknuts are typically very tight and it is easy to damage the edges/corners of the nut.
Only the brake pads and discs for the corners of the car that are being worked on need to be removed. Ignore any steps that do not apply.
Tools required
Materials required
Use pliers to carefully remove the 'R' clips from both retaining pins making sure you do not strain or bend them.
Apply light pressure to back of the anti-rattle spring with one hand and carefully withdraw the lower retaining pin. You may need to use pliers and/or a small hammer but make sure you are careful.
Once the lower retaining pin has been removed you should be able to remove the anti-rattle spring simply by lifting the bottom edge.
Now remove the top retaining pin in the same way as the lower one.
Place a piece of newspaper on the floor close by and carefully withdraw one pad and then the other. If you are planning on refitting the same pads make sure that you know which is the outer which is the inner one.
- Pliers
- Small hammer
- Newspaper
Once the front road wheel is removed you will see the brake caliper as shown in the photograph.
The front brakes are practically identical between the S1 and S2 - the only differences are the shape of the anti-rattle spring and the retaining pins (which have a thinner central section on the S2).
Be careful that the anti-rattle spring does not fly off as it has very sharp edges.
Firmly but slowly push the caliper pistons back by squeezing the pad backplate towards the caliper body. Do this for both the inner and outer pads/pistons. This will ensure that the pads can be removed past any ridge on the edge of the disc.
Always check the brake fluid level before and during this process in case there is too much
fluid in the reservoir and it overflows.
Always put brake pads down with the friction material up and the backplate down to ensure the friction material does not get contaminated with dirt, grease etc.
Tools required
Materials required
Tie a piece of strong string or twine around the top of the caliper where it passes over the disc so that it can be tied out of the way easily later on.
Remove both bolts taking care to support the caliper when removing the second bolt.
Securely tie the caliper out of the way.
- 6mm allen key bit
- Socket handle and extension bars
- Strong string or twine
The front brake calipers are attached to the upright with two 6mm cap head bolts.
A good place to tie the caliper to chassis near the upper wishbone pivot points. There should be a hole just about the wishbone here which can be used.
When tying the caliper up make sure the flexible brake hose isn't kinked or twisted.
This is especially important if braided hoses are fitted.
Tools required
Materials required
S2 only - remove the 4mm cap head brake disc retaining screw. Note that you may need an assistant to hold the brake disc stationary while you do this.
Remove the brake disc.
Make sure that when you are using a lever it is against a strong part of the upright and pushing against the inner part of the disc. The closer you can get to the centre of the disc the better.
If the disc will still not move having tried to lever it off then you will have to tap it off with a hammer. Use a reasonable size hammer gently at first tapping as close as possible to the centre of the brake disc. As you tap rotate the disc. Continue tapping and rotating the disc (you may have to tap more firmly if the disc won't move) until the disc is free.
Be careful that the disc does not fall off the drive flange/hub when tapping it off.
- 4mm allen key bit
- Socket handle and extension bars
- Long thin lever (e.g. old tyre lever)
- Large hammer
- Drill and suitable drill bits
- Small mole grips
- Newspaper
- An assistant!
- Oil (for lubricating drill)
S2 only - it is common for the brake disc retaining screw to 'round' when you attempt to remove it. If this happens you will need to drill out the head and then remove the brake disc. Use a suitable drill and bit lubricated with a little oil and take precautions to protect both your eyes and work area from swarf.
Always put brake discs somewhere safe where they will not get damaged or contaminated with dirt, grease etc.
Note that the brake disc may be corroded onto the drive flange. If this is the case first check you have removed the retaining screw if the car is an S2. If you are sure it is corroded use a long thin lever between the upright and inner part of the disc to slowly and carefully
release the disc. The best approach is to lever the disc a bit and then rotate it slightly and then lever it again and rotate it slightly again. Repeat this process
until the disc is free and can be removed.
S2 only - if you had to drill out the brake disc retaining screw it is best to leave the remainder
of the stud in place to help locate the brake disc during reassembly unless you have a replacement retaining screw ready to fit. If this
is the case you can remove the remainder of retaining screw using using a pair of grips or similar.
Tools required
Materials required
The cap head bolts are usually very difficult to remove successfully. Use a very good quality allen key bit and be
extremely careful. If the fixing becomes rounded the best way to proceed is to cut a slot across the bolt head
with a hacksaw and use a good quality thin flat-bladed screwdriver to undo the bolt.
Being careful not to bend or damage the splash shield remove it from the hub carrier and place it somewhere
safe where it will not get damaged.
- 3mm allen key bit
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 8mm open-ended spanner
- Drill and suitable drill bits
- Oil (for lubricating drill)
Not all cars have the shields on the front discs. If the car you are working on does not have them move on
to the next step.
The front disc splash shields are secured with 2 3mm cap head bolts and a
single 8mm hex head bolt.
If this does not work the only option left is to drill out the bolts. Be extremely careful when doing this as
the drill bit will try and move away from the steel bolt into the soft alumiumium hub carrier. Use a suitable drill and bit lubricated with a
little oil and take precautions to protect both your eyes and work area from swarf.
Once the 2 cap head bolts are removed loosen the 'hidden' hex head bolt which is under the hub flange with an open-ended spanner.
This bolt does not need to be removed completely - just enough to allow the splash shield to be removed.
Tools required
Loosen all four lower hub carrier fixings using a good quality 17mm hex head ring spanner or socket.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- 17mm ring spanner
Tools required
Loosen both steering arm bolts using a 8mm cap head bit.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 8mm allen key bit
You may need to turn the hub carrier/steering wheel to allow better access to the steering arm bolts with the road spring/damper in place.
Tools required
Materials required
Thoroughly clean the visible part of the track rod end thread with a wire brush.
Apply some WD40 or similar to the visible part of the track rod end thread.
Use a 19mm hex head socket to loosen the nut on the track rod end shaft.
- Wire brush
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- WD40 or similar
Tools required
Materials required
Thoroughly clean the exposed threads of both the upper and lower damper bolts and apply a little WD40 or similar.
Using a 17mm hex head socket and a 17mm hex head ring spanner loosen (but do not remove) the upper damper bolt.
Again using a 17mm hex head socket and a 17mm hex head ring spanner remove the lower damper bolt.
Remove the upper damper bolt and remove the road spring/damper assembly from the car.
Before removing either of the front road spring/damper assemblies ensure that both are at full droop to prevent injury and/or damage due to the anti-roll bar.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- 17mm ring spanner
- 17mm open-ended spanner
- Wire brush
- WD40 or similar
Depending on the dimension of your ring spanner and the length of exposed thread on the anti-roll bar drop link you may need to use a 17mm hex head open-ended spanner on the nut of the lower damper fixing.
The easiest way to remove the road spring/damper assembly from the car is to lift it upwards until it touches the wheelarch liner. You should then be able to push the bottom towards the centre of the car and lower the assembly through the lower wishbone and remove it from underneath.
To keep the bolts/washers/nuts together it is advisable to put them back through the upper and lower damper eyes with the nuts on a few turns.
Tools required
Materials required
Thoroughly clean the visible part of the track rod end thread with a wire brush.
Apply some WD40 or similar to the visible part of the track rod end thread.
Use a 19mm hex head socket to remove the nut on the track rod end shaft. Once the nut is removed use
a ball joint splitter to separate the track rod end from the steering arm.
Now hold the locknut(s) on the track rod and unwind the track rod end from the track rod end.
- Wire brush
- Ball joint splitter
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- WD40 or similar
Tools required
Remove both steering arm bolts using a 8mm cap head bit.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 8mm allen key bit
You may need to turn the hub carrier/steering wheel to allow better access to the steering arm bolts with the road spring/damper in place.
Be sure to retrieve and make a note of the camber shim(s) between the steering arm and hub carrier.
Tools required
Materials required
Thoroughly clean the visible part of the wishbone ball joint thread with a wire brush and apply some WD40.
Use a 19mm hex head socket to remove the nut from the wishbone ball joint. Once the nut is removed use
a ball joint splitter to separate the wishbone ball joint from the steering arm.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 19mm socket
- Breaker bar
- Wire brush
- Large flat-bladed screwdriver
- WD40 or similar
Use a long lever like a large screwdriver through the track rod end hole in the steering arm to hold the steering arm when removing the wishbone ball joint nut.
Tools required
Materials required
Use a ball joint splitter to separate the steering from the wishbone ball joint.
- Ball joint splitter
- Strong string or twine
- WD40 or similar
Tools required
Using a 17mm hex head socket or ring spanner and a 17mm hex head open-ended spanner remove the front upper wishbone forward pivot bolt.
Using the same tools remove the front upper wishbone rear pivot bolt again taking care to retrieve the washer and nut that are obscured by the upper damper mount.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- 17mm ring spanner
- 17mm open-ended spanner
- Large flat-bladed screwdriver
- Magnet-on-a-stick
Before removing either of the front upper wishbone pivot bolts make a note of the position of the castor shims/washers. There should be 4 washers in total on each pivot - large ones at the front and small ones at the rear.
On most cars the nut for the front upper wishbone forward pivot bolt is obscured by the wheelarch liner. Use a large flat-bladed screwdriver to hold the wheelarch liner out of the way while undoing the bolt.
Be careful to retrieve both the nut and washer after removing the front upper wishbone forward pivot bolt. A 'magnet-on-a-stick' (a small magnet on a telescopic rod) is ideal for this.
Be careful not to damage the steering rack gaiter when undoing and removing the front upper wishbone rear pivot bolt.
Remove the front upper wishbone by firmly pulling on the area around the wishbone ball joint and gently moving the wishbone up and down slightly as you pull.
Tools required
PRESSING OUT WISHBONE BALL JOINT PHOTO
Using a 10 ton floor press press out the wishbone ball joint.
- 10 ton floor press
- Assorted supports, sockets, extensions, dollies etc. for press
Take great care when using a press that the wishbone eye the wishbone ball joint fits in is properly and completely supported and that the wishbone isn't being distorted and/or bent during the pressing process.
Be aware that there can be a loud 'bang' when the wishbone ball joint starts to move in the wishbone. This is normal.
Tools required
PRESSING OUT WISHBONE BUSH PHOTO
Using a 10 ton floor press press out the wishbone bushes.
- 10 ton floor press
- Assorted supports, sockets, extensions, dollies etc. for press
Take great care when using a press that the wishbone eye the wishbone bush fits in is properly and completely supported and that the wishbone isn't being distorted and/or bent during the pressing process.
Ensure that you are pressing the bush out the 'right' way. The bushes have a collar on one end and it is best to push from the other end. Note that the rear lower wishbone front bush is a two-part bush and it is not possible to press this out the 'right' way. In this case simply press the bushes through the wishbone eye taking care not to damage the wishbone.
Tools required
Materials required
Thoroughly clean and inspect the 'inside' of the wishbone eyes where the wishbone ball joint fits and where the wishbone bushes fit. They should be completely free from corrosion and other debris. If there is any roughness carefully remove it with some fine wire wool and/or fine wet and dry lubricated with WD0 or similar.
Also ensure that the 'outer' lip of the wishbone eye for the ball joint is flat and free from corrosion (this is the the underside of the wishbone for lower ball joints and the top for upper ball joints) so that the new wishbone ball joint can seat properly. This is NOT the outer edge of the wishbone eye but the flat circle just inside it. On lower wishbone ball joints it is underneath and on upper joints it is on top. A blunt flat-bladed screwdriver is good for this.
Likewise ensure that the outer edges of the wishbone eyes for the bushes is flat and free from corrosion in the same way.
Thoroughly clean the wishbone eye to remove any debris.
Once completed all the wishbone eyes should be smooth and free from corrosion and debris.
- Blunt flat-bladed screwdriver
- WD40 or similar
- Wire wool
- Fine wet and dry paper
Tools required
Materials required
After removing the castor washers from the car they will need to be cleaned before refitting.
Thoroughly clean both sides of all the castor washers with the exception of the rubber 'snubber' washer with fine wet and dry and a little WD40 or similar. If there is significant corrosion this can be removed with careful use of a blunt flat-bladed screwdriver.
Decide what castor washer arrangement you will be using when refitting the front upper wishbone remembering that there must always be four washers in total. Ensure the castor washers are thoroughly clean and dry and superglue them together in the required arrangement.
- Blunt flat-bladed screwdriver
- WD40 or similar
- Fine wet and dry paper
- Superglue
When supergluing the castor washers together ensure that the holes are properly aligned.
Tools required
Materials required
The above diagrams show the correct direction the wishbone bushes should be pressed in. This is indicated by the 'flanged plastic outer sleeve' shown on each bush.
To summarise:
Smear some grease on the 'inside' of the wishbone eye and on the new bush. This will allow the new bush to be pressed into the wishbone more easily.
Carefully insert the new bush into the wishbone making sure that it is straight.
Press the new bush into the wishbone ensuring that it goes in straight.
- 10 ton floor press
- Assorted supports, sockets, extensions, dollies etc. for press
- New wishbone bushes
- Grease
Take great care when using a press that the wishbone eye the wishbone bush fits in is properly and completely supported and that the wishbone isn't being distorted and/or bent during the pressing process.
Tools required
Materials required
Smear some grease on the 'inside' of the wishbone eye and on the new ball joint (especially on the widest part of the gaiter). This will allow the new ball joint to be pressed into the wishbone more easily.
Carefully insert the new ball joint into the wishbone making sure that the gaiter is not trapped between the ball joint body and the wishbone. The best way to ensure this is to rotate the ball joint as you insert it. Note that the wishbone and ball joint have splines on them so you may feel these as you insert it.
Press the new ball joint into the wishbone ensuring that it goes in straight.
- 10 ton floor press
- Assorted supports, sockets, extensions, dollies etc. for press
- New wishbone ball joint(s)
- Grease
Ensure that you press the ball joint into the wishbone in the correct direction. For lower wishbones the ball joint should be inserted from below (with the shaft pointing upwards) and for upper wishbones the ball joint should be inserted from above (with the shaft pointing downwards).
Take great care when using a press that the wishbone eye the wishbone ball joint fits in is properly and completely supported and that the wishbone isn't being distorted and/or bent during the pressing process.
Tools required
Materials required
Torque settings
Thoroughly clean the threads of the wishbone pivot bolts with a wire brush.
To fit the front upper wishbone insert both wishbone pivot bolts into the bonded inserts in the chassis so that the bolt is protruding by about 1cm.
Place the cleaned castor washer(s) that are to behind the wishbone onto the protruding part of the bolts ensuring that the larger washer are used at the front and the rubber part of the snubber washer is facing the wishbone.
Place the wishbone in place against the rearmost castor washers and push the pivot bolts through the wishbone bushes ensuring that they do not protrude out of the front of the wishbone bushes.
Insert the castor washer(s) that are to be in front of the wishbone between the wishbone bush and the chassis bonded inserts.
Push (or tap carefully) the pivot bolts through the front castor washers and bonded inserts and place the washers and new nyloc nuts onto the bolts.
Tighten both pivot bolts to 45Nm ensuring that the wishbone is at normal ride height position.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Small hammer
- Large flat-bladed screwdriver
- Wire brush
- Small flat-bladed screwdriver
- 17mm open-ended spanner
- Superglue
- New M10 nyloc nuts
- Wishbone pivot bolt 45Nm
It will probably be difficult to get the front castor washers into place. To make this easier you can use a breaker bar to gently and carefully lever the wishbone and chassis apart slightly.
To insert the castor washers you may find it easier to use a magnet-on-a-stick or alternatively carefully tap the washers into place with a small flat-bladed screwdriver and a small hammer.
It is hard to gain access to get the washers and nuts onto the pivot bolts. It may help to superglue a washer and nut together and then superglue this combination to a 17mm hex head open-ended spanner. This will allow you to place the washer and nut in the correct place.
The wishbones are roughly horizontal when at normal ride height. This approximation can be used when tightening the wishbone pivot bolts.
Tools required
Materials required
Torque settings
Clean the tapered holes in the steering for the wishbone ball joint and track rod end place the steering arm onto the wishbone ball joint.
Using 19mm hex head a socket tighten the wishbone ball joint to 55 Nm.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 19mm socket
- Torque wrench
- Large flat-bladed screwdriver
- Rag/cloth/tissue
- Wishbone ball joint nut 55 Nm
Take care when working with new wishbone ball joints to not disturb the joint. If this happens it can be difficult to hold the ball joint shaft when tightening the nut.
Use a long lever like a large screwdriver through the track rod end hole in the steering arm to hold the steering arm when tightening the wishbone ball joint nut.
Tools required
Materials required
Torque settings
Ensure that the machined cone in the steering arm is completely smooth and free from debris.
Place the track rod end into the steering arm and carefully tighten the nut so
that the shaft is not disturbed. It is best to do this with a ring spanner to avoid disturbing the shaft.
Tighten the nut to 30 Nm using a 19mm hex head
socket.
Now you need to insert the track rod into the track rod end. The easiest way to do this is to manipulate the track rod end track rod so that
they are in line with each other and touching (you may have to turn the hub carrier/upright to achieve this).
Once they are touching apply gentle pressure to the steering arm to push the track rod end against the track rod. Turn the track rod (which may require
a pair of grips or similar) until the locknut(s) are just touching the track rod end body.
Tighten the locknut(s) to 80-82Nm.
- 17mm socket
- Socket handle and extension bars
- Torque wrench
- 19mm open-ended spanner x2
- 17mm ring spanner
- Steel rule
- Wire cutters
- Small mole grips
- New track rod end(s)
- Rag/cloth/tissue
- Cable ties
- Track rod end to steering arm nut 30 Nm
- Track rod end locknuts 80-82Nm
When tightening the nut onto the new track rod end shaft take great care not to
disturb the shaft. The reason for this is that if the shaft is disturbed it may rotate as you turn the nut.
If the track rod end shaft does start to turn as you are tightening the nut use a
pair of mole grips or similar to firmly hold the track rod end onto the steering arm. This
should provide enough friction to prevent the shaft from turning.
To get the front toe/tracking as close as possible to how it was measure the distance between the
'centre' of the ball joint of the track rod end and the end of the body of the old item. Also measure the same dimension of the new item.
Move the locknut(s) along the track rod by the difference between these two measurements.
You may find that you need to cut the cable tie on the steering rack gaiter to allow the track rod to turn easily. To do this use a pair of wire cutters carefully.
Since it is not possible to get a normal torque wrench and socket onto the track rod end locknut(s) using a pair
of good quality 19mm hex head open-ended spanners and doing them up very tightly is sufficient.
When tightening the track rod end locknut(s) take care not to turn the track rod end so that the
torque is being applied to the track rod end ball joint. Always hold the track rod body either with an open-ended spanner or some grips.
Tools required
Remove all four lower hub carrier fixings using a good quality 17mm hex head ring spanner or socket.
Separate the hub carrier from the lower ball joint plinth by carefully tapping the hub carrier.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- 17mm ring spanner
- Large hammer
The length of the lower plinth bolts used varies. It is possible to remove some from the lower ball joint plinth while others are 'trapped' by the wishbone. If this is the case simply undo the bolts as much as possible loosen the bolts as much as possible and then separate the hub carrier from the plinth to allow the remaining bolts to be removed from the hub carrier.
Tools required
Materials required
Thoroughly clean the visible part of the wishbone ball joint thread with a wire brush and apply some WD40.
Use a 19mm hex head socket to remove the nut from the wishbone ball joint. Once the nut is removed use
a ball joint splitter to separate the wishbone ball joint from the lower ball joint plinth.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 19mm socket
- Breaker bar
- Large flat-bladed screwdriver
- Wire brush
- WD40 or similar
Use a long lever like a large screwdriver through a hole in the lower ball joint plinth to hold the lower ball joint plinth when removing the wishbone ball joint nut.
Tools required
Materials required
Thoroughly clean the visible part of the anti roll bar drop link thread with a wire brush and apply some WD40.
Use a 17mm hex head socket and a 17mm hex head open-ended spanner to remove the nut from the anti roll bar drop link. Once the nut is removed remove the anti roll bar drop link from the wishbone.
- Wire brush
- 17mm open-ended spanner
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- WD40 or similar
Tools required
Using a 17mm hex head socket and a 17mm hex head ring spanner remove the front lower wishbone forward pivot bolt.
Using the same tools remove the front lower wishbone rear pivot bolt noting that that bolt is accessed from inside the passenger compartment as shown.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- 17mm ring spanner
On most cars the nut for the front lower wishbone forward pivot bolt is only accessible after removing the front undertray between the chassis and front clamshell.
Remove the front lower wishbone by firmly pulling on the area around the wishbone ball joint and gently moving the wishbone up and down slightly as you pull.
Tools required
PRESSING OUT WISHBONE BALL JOINT PHOTO
Using a 10 ton floor press press out the wishbone ball joint.
- 10 ton floor press
- Assorted supports, sockets, extensions, dollies etc. for press
Take great care when using a press that the wishbone eye the wishbone ball joint fits in is properly and completely supported and that the wishbone isn't being distorted and/or bent during the pressing process.
Be aware that there can be a loud 'bang' when the wishbone ball joint starts to move in the wishbone. This is normal.
Tools required
PRESSING OUT WISHBONE BUSH PHOTO
Using a 10 ton floor press press out the wishbone bushes.
- 10 ton floor press
- Assorted supports, sockets, extensions, dollies etc. for press
Take great care when using a press that the wishbone eye the wishbone bush fits in is properly and completely supported and that the wishbone isn't being distorted and/or bent during the pressing process.
Ensure that you are pressing the bush out the 'right' way. The bushes have a collar on one end and it is best to push from the other end. Note that the rear lower wishbone front bush is a two-part bush and it is not possible to press this out the 'right' way. In this case simply press the bushes through the wishbone eye taking care not to damage the wishbone.
Tools required
Materials required
Thoroughly clean and inspect the 'inside' of the wishbone eyes where the wishbone ball joint fits and where the wishbone bushes fit. They should be completely free from corrosion and other debris. If there is any roughness carefully remove it with some fine wire wool and/or fine wet and dry lubricated with WD0 or similar.
Also ensure that the 'outer' lip of the wishbone eye for the ball joint is flat and free from corrosion (this is the the underside of the wishbone for lower ball joints and the top for upper ball joints) so that the new wishbone ball joint can seat properly. This is NOT the outer edge of the wishbone eye but the flat circle just inside it. On lower wishbone ball joints it is underneath and on upper joints it is on top. A blunt flat-bladed screwdriver is good for this.
Likewise ensure that the outer edges of the wishbone eyes for the bushes is flat and free from corrosion in the same way.
Thoroughly clean the wishbone eye to remove any debris.
Once completed all the wishbone eyes should be smooth and free from corrosion and debris.
- Blunt flat-bladed screwdriver
- WD40 or similar
- Wire wool
- Fine wet and dry paper
Tools required
Materials required
The above diagrams show the correct direction the wishbone bushes should be pressed in. This is indicated by the 'flanged plastic outer sleeve' shown on each bush.
To summarise:
Smear some grease on the 'inside' of the wishbone eye and on the new bush. This will allow the new bush to be pressed into the wishbone more easily.
Carefully insert the new bush into the wishbone making sure that it is straight.
Press the new bush into the wishbone ensuring that it goes in straight.
- 10 ton floor press
- Assorted supports, sockets, extensions, dollies etc. for press
- New wishbone bushes
- Grease
Take great care when using a press that the wishbone eye the wishbone bush fits in is properly and completely supported and that the wishbone isn't being distorted and/or bent during the pressing process.
Tools required
Materials required
Smear some grease on the 'inside' of the wishbone eye and on the new ball joint (especially on the widest part of the gaiter). This will allow the new ball joint to be pressed into the wishbone more easily.
Carefully insert the new ball joint into the wishbone making sure that the gaiter is not trapped between the ball joint body and the wishbone. The best way to ensure this is to rotate the ball joint as you insert it. Note that the wishbone and ball joint have splines on them so you may feel these as you insert it.
Press the new ball joint into the wishbone ensuring that it goes in straight.
- 10 ton floor press
- Assorted supports, sockets, extensions, dollies etc. for press
- New wishbone ball joint(s)
- Grease
Ensure that you press the ball joint into the wishbone in the correct direction. For lower wishbones the ball joint should be inserted from below (with the shaft pointing upwards) and for upper wishbones the ball joint should be inserted from above (with the shaft pointing downwards).
Take great care when using a press that the wishbone eye the wishbone ball joint fits in is properly and completely supported and that the wishbone isn't being distorted and/or bent during the pressing process.
Tools required
Materials required
Torque settings
Thoroughly clean the threads of the wishbone pivot bolts with a wire brush.
Place the front lower wishbone into place in the chassis.
Tighten both pivot bolts to 45Nm ensuring that the wishbone is at normal ride height position.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- Torque wrench
- Small hammer
- Large flat-bladed screwdriver
- Wire brush
- 17mm ring spanner
- New M10 nyloc nuts
- Wishbone pivot bolt 45Nm
You may find it hard to get wishbone bushes into their respective positions in the chassis. If this is the case carefully use a large flat-bladed screwdriver to lever between the chassis and the central tube of the wishbone bush to move it slightly and allow the wishbone to be placed correctly.
The wishbones are roughly horizontal when at normal ride height. This approximation can be used when tightening the wishbone pivot bolts.
Tools required
Torque settings
Thoroughly clean the threads of the wishbone pivot bolts with a wire brush.
Place the front lower wishbone into place in the chassis.
Tighten both pivot bolts to 45Nm ensuring that the wishbone is at normal ride height position.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- Torque wrench
- Wire brush
- 17mm open-ended spanner
- Wishbone pivot bolt 45Nm
You may find it hard to get wishbone bushes into their respective positions in the chassis. If this is the case carefully use a large flat-bladed screwdriver to lever between the chassis and the central tube of the wishbone bush to move it slightly and allow the wishbone to be placed correctly.
The wishbones are roughly horizontal when at normal ride height. This approximation can be used when tightening the wishbone pivot bolts.
Tools required
Materials required
Torque settings
Use a 17mm hex head socket and a 17mm hex head open-ended spanner to tighten the anti roll bar drop link nut to 45Nm.
- 17mm open-ended spanner
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- Torque wrench
- New M10x1.25 nyloc nuts
- Anti roll bar drop link nut 45Nm
The anti roll bar drop link thread is not a normal M10 thread. Do not use a normal nyloc nut as it may damage the thread.
Tools required
Materials required
Torque settings
Clean the tapered hole in the lower ball joint plinth for the wishbone ball joint and place the plinth onto the wishbone ball joint.
Using 19mm hex head a socket tighten the wishbone ball joint to 55 Nm.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 19mm socket
- Torque wrench
- Large flat-bladed screwdriver
- Rag/cloth/tissue
- Wishbone ball joint nut 55 Nm
If one or more of the lower ball joint plinth bolts could not be removed from the plinth before it was removed from the wishbone ball joint during
disassembly be sure to put the bolt into the relevant hole(s) in the plinth before fitting the plinth to the wishbone ball joint.
Take care when working with new wishbone ball joints to not disturb the joint. If this happens it can be difficult to hold the ball joint shaft when tightening the nut.
Use a long lever like a large screwdriver through a hole in the ball joint plinth to hold it when tightening the wishbone ball joint nut.
Tools required
Materials required
Torque settings
Use the lower ball joint plinth bolts to carefully clean the threads in the bottom of the hub carrier. To do this simply insert the bolts and tighten them until they are just over finger tight using a 17mm hex head socket. Remove them and use a fine wire brush to remove the debris from the threads. Repeat this process until the bolts go into the hub carrier so that no thread can be seen
Ensure the ball joint plinth is clean and apply a thin smear of Duralac.
Place the hub carrier onto the ball joint plinth and insert/do up one of the ball joint plinth bolts to ensure the hub carrier and plinth are aligned.
Apply a small amount of threadlock to the thread of the other three bolts and insert them into the hub carrier through the plinth.
Remove the first bolt, thoroughly clean the thread, apply a little threadlock and insert it into the hub carrier through the plinth.
Tighten all four bolts to 45 Nm.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- Torque wrench
- 17mm ring spanner
- Wire brush
- Permabond
- Duralac
- Rag/cloth/tissue
- Front upright to lower ball joint plinth bolts 45 Nm
Tools required
Materials required
Torque settings
Use the steering arm bolts to carefully clean the threads in the hub carrier. To do this simply insert the bolts and tighten them until they are just over finger tight using a 8mm cap head socket. Remove them and use a fine wire brush to remove the debris from the threads. Repeat this process until both bolts go into the hub carrier so that no thread can be seen.
Insert one of the steering arm bolts (dry - without any Permabond) to hold the hub carrier and steering arm in the
correct orientation. Apply a little Permabond to the other bolt and insert it ensuring the steering arm still has some movement.
Remove the first bolt, clean the threads, apply a little Permabond and insert it into the hub carrier through the steering arm.
Use a torque wrench to tighten both bolts to 45Nm.
REFITTING DAMPER.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- Torque wrench
- 8mm allen key bit
- Wire brush
- Duralac
- Rag/cloth/tissue
- Steering arm bolt 45Nm
The steering arm bolts are different lengths - the shorter one is used towards the front of the car and the longer one
is used towards the rear of the car.
Before inserting either of the steering arm bolts ensure that the camber shims are back in place
as they were when the hub carrier was removed.
When inserting the first steering arm bolt ensure that the steering arm and hub carrier are properly aligned. This can
be quite hard especially if the wishbone ball joints have been changed which means they will be very stiff. Also the standard wishbone bushes
will try and raise the wishbone. It is important though that the bolts enter the hub carrier straight as otherwise they may damage the thread.
Tools required
Materials required
Torque settings
Place the road spring/damper assembly back on to the car, insert the lower bolt through the lower wishbone (from the front of the car) and put the washer and new nyloc nut onto the lower bolt loosely.
Insert the upper bolt through the damper bracket (again from the front) and place a spacer onto the bolt. Raise the damper (and the rest of the suspension) until the upper bolt can be inserted through the damper eye. Place the other spacer onto the bolt and push the bolt through the damper bracket. Place the washer and new nyloc nut onto the bolt loosely.
Tighten both damper bolts to 45Nm using a 17mm hex head socket.
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 17mm socket
- Torque wrench
- 17mm ring spanner
- 17mm open-ended spanner
- New M10 nyloc nuts
- Damper bolt 45Nm
Ensure that the spacers are fitted the correct way round - the wider part of the spacer should face the damper.
Tools required
Materials required
Note that this is not a trivial task and if you are not confident it may be best to take the hub carrier, splash shield and new bolts to an engineering
company or similar and let them do the work.
Carefully place the splash shield in place taking care not to bend or damage it.
Insert the two cap head bolts but do not tighten them at this stage.
Tighten the 'hidden' fixing bearing in mind that it is a small bolt so don't overtighten it.
Finally tighten both the cap head bolts again bearing in mind that they are small bolts so don't overtighten them.
- 3mm allen key bit
- Socket handle and extension bars
- 8mm open-ended spanner
- Copper grease
- Rag/cloth/tissue
Not all cars have the shields on the front discs. If the car you are working on does not have them move on
to the next step.
If you had to drill out the two 3mm cap head bolts
when removing the splash shield you will need to sort out how to fix them back again. The best way of doing this is to get new bolts
and, with the shield in the correct position, drill a new hole through the shield and into the upright. This hole will need to have
a thread tapped into it.
Make sure the washer for the 'hidden' fixing is not trapped between the shield and hub carrier - it should be
between the shield and the bolt head.
It is worth putting a little copper grease or similar on the cap head shield bolts before refitting them as it will help with
subsequent removal.
Tools required
Materials required
Thoroughly clean the hub/drive flange and the inside of the centre of the disc to ensure the two mate properly.
Refit the disc onto the hub/drive flange.
- 4mm allen key bit
- Copper grease
- Rag/cloth/tissue
Putting a thin layer of copper grease onto the hub/drive flange before fitting the disc will help prevent it
corroding and getting stuck in the future.
S2 only - take care to align the disc so that the retaining screw hole lines up. Refit the retaining screw. If you had to drill out the retaining screw or it was already drilled out make sure the 'stud' of the retaining screw is lined up with the hole in the disc.
Tools required
Materials required
Torque settings
Before refitting the caliper use the bolts to clean the threads in the upright. To do this clean the bolts using a wire brush and then
insert the bolts (dry) into the upright until they are tight. Remove the bolts and clean them again and re-insert them until they are tight.
Repeat this process until the bolts go in all the way to the end of their threaded section easily. Withdraw the bolts and clean them again.
Carefully untie the caliper and place the caliper in position against the upright.
Insert one bolt (dry - without any Permabond) into one of the holes to locate the caliper properly.
Apply a little Permabond to the other bolt and fully insert it (but don't overtighten it). Make sure the caliper still has a little movement.
Remove the first bolt, clean it, apply Permabond and insert it.
Use a torque wrench to tighten both bolts to 45 Nm.
- 6mm allen key bit
- Socket handle and extension bars
- Torque wrench
- Wire brush
- Permabond
- Front brake caliper to upright bolts 45 Nm
When placing the caliper against the upright make sure the flexible brake hose isn't kinked or twisted.
This is especially important if braided hoses are fitted.
Tools required
Materials required
Place the brake piston spreader over the brake disc and wind the tool to force both pistons fully home into the caliper.
Put a very thin smear of copper grease on the short sides of the brake pad backplate only. You can also put some copper grease on the
back of the backplate where it comes into contact with the piston.
Insert a brake pad into the caliper ensuring that the backplate is next to the caliper and the friction material is next to the
brake disc. Put the lower retaining pin through the caliper and just into the hole in the backplate to prevent the pad from falling or moving.
Repeat for the other pad but this time put the upper retaining pin all the way through both pads and the caliper and fit it's 'R' clip.
Remove the partially-inserted lower retaining pin and place the anti-rattle spring in place. The photo shows the correct orientation for the S1 anti-rattle spring. The S2 anti-rattle spring has an arrow on it which should point upwards.
Once the anti-rattle spring is back in place apply light pressure to the back of it with one hand and carefully insert the lower retaining pin all the way through both pads and the caliper and fit it's 'R' clip.
- Brake piston spreader
- Small hammer
- Brake cleaner or methylated spirits
- Rag/cloth/tissue
- Copper grease
If the old brake pads are to be re-used thoroughly clean them with brake cleaner or methylated spirits.
Always check the brake fluid level before and during this process in case there is too much
fluid in the reservoir and it overflows.
Some aftermarket brake pads can be a tight fit in the caliper. If the pad will not go into the
caliper easily gently and carefully tap the pad in with a small hammer. Make sure you only tap the backplate and not the friction material.
Tools required
The flexible brake hose clips are all secured with 10mm hex head nuts
onto studs welded to the wishbones.
Replace the clip onto the welded stud and tighten the nut.
- 10mm socket
- Socket handle and extension bars
It is very easy to overtighten the nut - take care not to damage the nut and/or stud.
Tools required
Materials required
S2 only - firmly apply the handbrake and remove the 4mm cap head brake disc retaining screw.
Release the handbrake.
Tap the tool/pin/nail to push the retaining pin out of the caliper.
Once the pin has been pushed out sufficiently use a pair of pliers to pull the retaining pin out of the caliper.
Place a piece of newspaper on the floor close by ready to put the pads on.
It is not possible to simply push the rear piston back into the caliper (the piston has to be turned at the same time). The best way is to push the outer pad towards the centre of the disc so that the 'ears' on the pad are clear of the caliper. Now rotate the disc and push the disc in the same direction. This should enable you to remove the outer pad.
Remove the brake disc and then the inner pad.
Make sure that when you are using a lever it is against a strong part of the upright and pushing against the inner part of the disc. The closer you can get to the centre of the disc the better.
If the disc will still not release having tried to lever it off then you will have to tap it off with a hammer. Use a reasonable size hammer gently at first tapping as close as possible to the centre of the brake disc. As you tap rotate the disc. Continue tapping and rotating the disc (you may have to tap more firmly if the disc won't move).
Be careful that the disc does not fall off the drive flange/hub when tapping it off.
- Small pin (e.g. old nail or broken allen key)
- Small hammer
- Pliers
- Long thin lever (e.g. old tyre lever)
- Drill and suitable drill bits
- Small mole grips
- Large hammer
- 4mm allen key bit
- Socket handle and extension bars
- Newspaper
- Oil (for lubricating drill)
Once the rear road wheel is removed you will see the brake caliper as shown in the photograph.
The rear brakes are practically identical between the S1 and S2 - the only differences are the discs go over the road wheel studs on the S1 and the discs are retained by a 4mm cap head brake disc retaining screw on the S2.
S2 only - it is common for the brake disc retaining screw to 'round' when you attempt to remove it. If this happens you will need to drill out the head and then remove the brake disc. Use a suitable drill and bit lubricated with a little oil and take precautions to protect both your eyes and work area from swarf.
Insert a suitable pin (an old nail or even a broken allen key is suitable) into the hole in the back of the caliper. Note that whatever tool you use should be blunt and not too thin.
You may find it easier to hold the tool/pin/nail in a pair of pliers to prevent hitting your hand with the hammer.
If the retaining pin does not move relatively easily with tapping try using a pair of small mole grips to firmly hold the pin in line with the disc (using the hole in the back of the caliper for access). Gently tapping the mole grips should move the retaining pin.
Take care when withdrawing the retaining pin to only hold the end of the pin itself and not the spring-metal ring on the end.
Before fully removing the retaining pin cover the anti-rattle spring with your hand to prevent it flying off and hitting you or something else
Always put brake pads down with the friction material up and the backplate down to ensure the friction material does not get contaminated with dirt, grease etc.
S1 only - turn the brake disc so it matches the photograph.
Always put brake discs somewhere safe where they will not get damaged or contaminated with dirt, grease etc.
Note that the brake disc may be corroded onto the drive flange. If this is the case first check you have removed the retaining screw if the car is an S2. If you are sure it is corroded use a long thin lever between the upright and inner part of the disc to slowly and carefully
release the disc. The best approach is to lever the disc a bit and then rotate it slightly and then lever it again and rotate it slightly again. Repeat this process
until the disc is free and can be removed.
S2 only - if you had to drill out the brake disc retaining screw it is best to leave the remainder
of the stud in place to help locate the brake disc during reassembly unless you have a replacement retaining screw ready to fit. If this
is the case you can remove the remainder of retaining screw using using a pair of grips or similar.
Tools required
Materials required
Use a blunt flat-bladed screwdriver to remove any raised corrosion on the piston face, caliper 'arms' that hold the outer pad and retaining pin.
Push the piston back into the caliper using a piston winding tool. Remember that as well as turning the pison you will also need to push the tool/piston
into the caliper.
Put a very thin smear of copper grease on the corners of the brake pad backplate only where it comes into contact with the caliper.
You can also put some copper grease on the piston and the 'arms' of the caliper that hold the outer pad.
Insert the inner brake pad into the caliper ensuring that the backplate is next to the piston and the friction material is facing outwards.
Thoroughly clean the hub/drive flange and the inside of the centre of the disc to ensure the two mate properly.
Refit the disc onto the hub/drive flange.
Insert the outer brake pad between the disc and the caliper.
Place the anti-rattle spring in place and insert the retaining ping through the caliper, anti-rattle spring, outer pad, inner pad, anti-rattle spring and
caliper in that order. Ensure that the retaining pin has gone through both parts of the anti-rattle spring. You may need to use the hammer and
suitable pin to push the retaining pin fully home.
- Rear brake caliper pison winding tool
- 4mm allen key bit
- Small hammer
- Small pin (e.g. old nail or broken allen key)
- Blunt flat-bladed screwdriver
- Brake cleaner or methylated spirits
- Rag/cloth/tissue
- Copper grease
If the old brake pads are to be re-used thoroughly clean them with brake cleaner or methylated spirits.
Be extremely careful when scraping the piston that you don't damage/scratch the surface. Only scrape enough
to remove any high-spots of corrosion that may prevent the brake pad from fitting flat against the piston.
Always check the brake fluid level before and during this process in case there is too much
fluid in the reservoir and it overflows.
Putting a thin layer of copper grease onto the hub/drive flange before fitting the disc will help prevent it
corroding and getting stuck in the future.
S2 only - take care to align the disc so that the retaining screw hole lines up. Refit the retaining screw. If you had to drill out the retaining screw or it was already drilled out make sure the 'stud' of the retaining screw is lined up with the hole in the disc.
The head of the retaining pin should be lower than the caliper body. If it is not it is not fully home. If you are
using a hammer you should notice a distinct change in sound when the pin is fully home.
Tools required
Materials required
The S1 has 19mm hex head nuts and the S2 has 17mm hex head bolts (with the special tool).
Put a thin smear of copper grease or similar on the outer face of the brake disc where it comes into contact with the road wheel. This will
help prevent the two corroding together. Also put a thin smear of copper grease on the road wheel studs/wheel bolts.
Carefully lift the road wheel into position. On an S1 this will mean placing the road wheel over the studs on the hub/drive flange. On an S2 you need
to make sure that the bolt holes in the wheel line up with the bolt holes in the disc.
Hold the wheel in place by placing your foot or knee gently against the bottom of the tyre and put the nuts/bolts back. At this stage just finger-tight is
sufficient.
Once all four nuts/bolts are in place and finger-tight use a socket handle to just nip them up a little bit more. Don't overtighten them but make sure the wheel isn't loose.
- 19mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Socket handle and extension bars
- Road wheel bolt special tool (S2 only - supplied with car)
- Road wheel locking nut/bolt key (supplied with car)
- Copper grease
- Rag/cloth/tissue
It is worth putting a little copper grease or similar on the road wheel studs/bolts as it will help with
subsequent removal.
S1 only - covering the outside of the socket you use to tighten the road wheel nuts with
electrical insulation tape or similar will help prevent damage to the wheels.
S2 only - the S2 has a special tool for the road wheel bolts. This should be included with
the tool kit car for the car.
Tools required
Removing the axle stands from under the car is the reverse of putting them there - locate the jack/protective pad at the correct point and
raise the car clear of the axle stands/supports.
Place ramps under both wheels on the side that is raised and remove the axle stands/supports.
Carefully lower the car until it is resting on the ramps.
Repeat for the other side.
- Suitable jack and protective pad (e.g. a piece of wood)
- Four ramps
Since there is no way of securely locating the jack on an Elise be careful about raising one side too much
higher than the other as there is a chance that the jack will slip out causing injury and damage the sill.
Tools required
Materials required
To refit the diffuser panel lie under the car ensuring that you have the
two 13mm hex head bolts or 6mm cap head
bolts easily to hand.
Raise the diffuser panel into position and insert the two 'main' bolts but do not completely tighten them at this stage.
Replace the remaining 10 8mm hex head bolts but again do not completely tighten them as you
may well need to move the diffuser panel slightly to get some of the bolts in.
Once all the bolts are in, lie under the car and pushing the diffuser panel upwards with
one hand fully tighten the two 'main' bolts. Now fully tighten the five bolts joining the diffuser panel to the
rear clam and then fully tighten the five bolts joining the diffuser panel to the engine undertray.
- 8mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 6mm allen key bit
- Socket handle and extension bars
- Copper grease
- Rag/cloth/tissue
It is worth putting a little copper grease or similar on all the diffuser panel bolts before refitting them as it will help with
subsequent removal.
Be careful when tightening the 8mm hex head bolts
as they are only held in place by spire nuts. As long as the diffuser panel is held firmly that is sufficient.
Tools required
Materials required
To refit the engine undertray lie under the car with your feet pointing forwards ensuring that you have the
two 13mm hex head bolts or 6mm cap head
bolts easily to hand.
Slide the undertray onto your body/legs and using your feet raise the leading (front-most) edge and push it
forwards into its 'slot' at the rear of the cockpit floor. Now insert the two 'main' bolts but do not completely
tighten them at this stage.
Replace the remaining 11 8mm hex head bolts but again do not completely tighten them as you
may well need to move the undertray slightly to get some of the bolts in.
Once all the bolts are in, lie under the car again and pushing the undertray forward into its 'slot' with
one hand fully tighten the two 'main' bolts. Now fully tighten the five bolts joining the undertray to the
diffuser and then fully tighten the three bolts on each side.
- 8mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 6mm allen key bit
- Socket handle and extension bars
- Copper grease
- Rag/cloth/tissue
It is worth putting a little copper grease or similar on all the undertray bolts before refitting them as it will help with
subsequent removal.
Be careful when tightening the 8mm hex head bolts as they are only held in place by spire
nuts. As long as the undertray is held firmly that is sufficient.
Tools required
Lowering the car is the reverse of raising it - locate the jack/protective pad at the correct point and
raise the car clear of the ramps. Slide the ramps out slightly and carefully lower the car. Now lower
the jack and repeat on the other side. Continue lowering each side in turn until the car is resting on
the floor.
- Suitable jack and protective pad (e.g. a piece of wood)
- Two chocks (e.g. house bricks)
- Four ramps
Tools required
Torque settings
With the tyres in contact with something firm (the ground, a ramp etc.) use a torque wrench to tighten up the road wheel nuts/bolts
in the same sequence as they were loosened. The S1 setting is 85 Nm and the S2 setting is
105 Nm.
- 19mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Socket handle and extension bars
- Torque wrench
- Road wheel bolt special tool (S2 only - supplied with car)
- Road wheel locking nut/bolt key (supplied with car)
- S1 road wheel nut 85 Nm
- S2 road wheel bolt 105 Nm
Make sure when you use the road wheel locking nut/bolt key that is firmly and squarely applied
to the nut/bolt. These keys have a tendancy to 'round' if they are not properly used.
S1 only - to fit the covers to the locking wheel nuts place the cover in the end of the black
plastic tube that the locking wheel nut key is stored in and then use the plastic tube to hold the cover against the locking wheel nut.
Use a long thin flat-ended tool (a socket extension bar is suitable) to press the cover over the locking wheel nut.
S1 only - make sure that you only fit the locking wheel nut covers to the locking wheel nuts. If the cover does not fit easily double-check that you aren't attempting to fit a cover to a normal wheel nut.
Materials required
To ensure the brake pads are in the correct position simply press and release the brake pedal repeatedly until it becomes firm. This is best done by sitting in the driver's seat and using the normal foot to ensure that it 'feels' as it should.
Do not be alarmed if the pedal goes all the way to floor on the first pumps - the mechanical and hydraulic advantage offered by the pedal and master cylinder mean that a complete pump of the brake pedal only moves the brake caliper pistons a small amount. This is exaggerated when more than one piston has been moved.
If the pedal does not become firm or feel correct go back and check any work you have done on the brakes. Never assume that the problem will resolve itself.
After working on any part of the braking system always check that the pedal is firm before moving or driving the car.
- An assistant!
If you have an assistant get them to attempt to push the car while you press the brake pedal. If you do not have an assistant drive the car slowly just a short distance and check that you can stop the car.